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The challenge ahead
Finding jobs on the tundra

"Always bring warm clothes when flying in winter," suggests Myron Naneng, looking over the seemingly endless expanse of tundra that is the subarctic. "You never know when you're going to have to walk."

The Association of Village Council Presidents, a regional social services group that helps natives in the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta, may end up administering the new welfare law for the region. Myron Naneng, the association's president &emdash; the job Napoleon once held &emdash; welcomes the challenge.
      Naneng said some natives do need welfare, including people who are older and have no education, like Berlin and Wessillie.
      But he said the young are some of the biggest beneficiaries, and their lives are worse for it.
Welfare has destroyed native Alaskans' traditional work ethic and sense of responsibility, Naneng said.
      "People continually rely on other organizations or people to make things happen for them," he said. "I think people are going to have to take a lot more responsibility individually to find ways to help themselves."
      He acknowledged that giving up welfare will be hard. "The communities are going to have to do some brainstorming," Naneng said in his quiet, impassive way. "They will have to learn how to make ends meet."

organizations or people to make things happen for them," he said. "I think people are going to have to take a lot more responsibility
      Walter Riley, another Nunapitchuk resident, doesn't see how this is possible.
      There are about 20 permanent jobs in his village, including at the general store, gas station, and school and village offices. Earl Chase, the village manager, said 50 people sign up when even a temporary job is posted.
      Riley is always one of them. In his early 40s, he is part of the younger generation caught between cultures. Like many his age, Riley depends on odd jobs to scrape by because he has no skills. And although he hunts a little, he never truly learned the subsistence way of life.
      He was working as a laborer at the village school, but after several months the temporary job was coming to an end. He depends on food stamps and at times welfare to feed his four children.
      "I don't know how I will support my family" if there is no aid and no steady work, he said.
      Riley said he would be willing to take a job in Bethel, but jobs are scarce there, too. And even if he could find one, Riley said, the pay most certainly would not cover the high costs of living in town, where the rent, light and heat bills can easily top $1,000 a month.

DESIRE FOR OLD WAYS

Ivan Wessellie's mother, Anna E. Wessillie, 79, learned from her mother how to survive off the land.

      The women of Nunapitchuk also were alarmed by news of the welfare law. They moved to a separate room to share their feelings because of a custom that requires them to keep quiet out of respect in the presence of men.
      The women said it is not part of their culture to want anything but what life gives them, so it would be wrong to harbor hopes, even for their own lives.
      But 79-year-old Anna E. Wessillie sounded as if she wanted a return to many of the old ways.
      The mother of 15, including Ivan Wessillie, said that in her time children were taught everything they needed to know to live off the land; girls were taught how married life would be, and how to raise their children properly. But today, children are very hard to talk to; they don't want to listen to their elders, she said.
      Rebecca Andrew still listens to her elders. The 32-year-old mother of five looked down as she spoke in a barely audible voice and consulted with her mother before answering questions.
      Her husband fishes and hunts a little, but neither of them know much about subsistence living, Andrew said. Her husband finds work now and then, most recently making culverts for the village, but the family depends on food stamps and welfare.
      Andrew said she had no idea what the future would hold under the welfare reforms, but one thing was certain: She would not encourage her children to move away for jobs when they grew up. Other than to go to Bethel for medical checkups, the children &emdash; the oldest of whom is 13 &emdash; have never been out of Nunapitchuk, Andrew said.
      In fact, none of the women would think of moving away, even though poverty runs deep and their culture in many ways has become a shadow of its former self.
      The average home in the villages of the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta has two or three rooms and seven to eight residents who sleep three to four to a bed. In most villages, there is no water, so people melt ice or haul water inside from wells for cooking and washing up. There also is no sewerage, so people haul waste to containers that are emptied on the tundra, or in open sewage pits.

The women of Nunapitchuk, from left: Anna E. Wessillie, Rebecca Andrew, Anna Sallison, and Katie Jenkins

      Chase said he did not know how many people in Nunapitchuk were on welfare, "but there are a lot." Given the number of recipients in the delta overall, in most villages about 25 percent of the residents depend on the government.
      The village's economy, Chase said, depends on welfare &emdash; in October alone, the general store cashed $14,000 worth of checks for Aid to Families with Dependent Children.
      That figure did not include food stamps, which don't go far at the village store, where
      apples are $1.85 a pound, pasta $1.95 a pound and potatoes &emdash; one of the few vegetables &emdash; a dollar apiece. The store doesn't even bother to sell milk &emdash; it would cost about $5 per gallon.
      Chase said the welfare reforms will add to the village's problems. In the past year, there have been six domestic abuse cases, and, although alcohol is banned in the village, it was blamed for three deaths, including two people whose frozen bodies were found in nearby lakes.

ANGST AND IDLE TIMES

Samantha Alexie 2, has an ear infection. Dr. Don Kruse listens while Samantha's mother, Maggie, explains her daughter's symptoms.

     Dr. Donn Kruse said it is a familiar story.
      Kruse is director of the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta Regional Hospital, a long, snaking tubular structure that sits on stilts above the frozen tundra. From morning to night, the lobby is filled with walk-in patients, many elderly and nearly everyone with children in tow. Many know Kruse, a slight man casually dressed in a cotton plaid shirt, green pants, a belt adorned with a bear claw and caribou antler, and Birkenstocks.
      Kruse moved to Bethel in 1983 to learn more about the culture of two adopted native Alaskan siblings. He found a people rich in traditions but deep in poverty.
      The region's health problems are serious, Kruse said, and they will only worsen when the welfare reforms go into effect and Medicaid benefits are curtailed.
      Tuberculosis is still common in the delta and pneumonia reaches up to 50 times the national average at times, Kruse said. Constant exposure to raw sewage contributes to high rates of bacterial diseases such as hepatitis.

      But alcoholism is regarded as the region's No. 1 health problem, and suicide is the second-leading cause of death and four times the national rate. Kruse believes the poor job market, the resulting idle time in the villages and angst about trying to straddle two cultures all contribute to these epidemics.
      Fetal alcohol syndrome among native Alaskans is four times the national rate, and posters on hospital walls plead with pregnant women not to drink. A poster placed in the privacy of a bathroom tells women that it's not their fault when a drunken husband beats them.
      "We know unequivocally that when cash hits the region, the alcohol consumption goes up," Kruse said. "That's just the way it is."

PAIN BEFORE PROGRESS

      Naneng said there will be much more pain before things get better for his people. And he said that for them to have a fighting chance, the government must improve education, change state fishing regulations so natives can earn a decent living and require out-of-town contractors to hire locally instead of importing workers when they come to town for construction projects.
      But without welfare, Naneng predicted, natives would be forced to pursue education and learn skills, and that a slow evolution would begin from alcoholism to busier, more satisfying lives.
      "It will not be easy, but we must do this to survive," he said.

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