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Reform won't end poverty
Jobs alone can't solve Native Alaskans' problems

Bush planes are the taxis of the Alaska wilderness. For $66 (a strain for most locals), one can fly 22 miles from Bethel to Nanupitchuk and back.

      BETHEL, Alaska &emdash; Like a pinprick on a map, Bethel is nearly swallowed by its vast surroundings.
      Villagers who can afford it hire bush planes to get to Bethel. Otherwise, they boat to town in the summer and ride snow machines over the frozen Kuskokwim River in the winter.
      In the fall, the temperatures are in the high teens to low 20s, and the roads are covered with ice and sometimes a film of snow. There are virtually no trees on the tundra and the harsh weather makes even the nicest homes look dilapidated.
      Bethel is replete with curious distinctions. There are moose and caribou antlers everywhere &emdash; on homes, businesses and trucks.

      Many small American towns coalesce around the high school football team, but in Bethel the symbol of unity is the basketball team because the ground is frozen year-round and dog sledding is the only outdoor sport.
      There also are no art galleries, tennis courts, golf courses, movie theaters or coffee houses. But there is Chinese takeout, served up by a small group of Koreans who came to Bethel a decade ago looking for a better life. Today, they run nearly every restaurant in town.
      Because all goods and materials either must be barged or flown into Bethel, everything is expensive, and residents who can't afford cars call one of the town's nine cab companies &emdash; nearly all run by Albanians &emdash; to get around.
      But beyond all of these oddities, Bethel has an important role in the Alaska wilderness. It is the place where native Alaskans conduct business with the government. Villagers also come to Bethel for medical care, to look for work and to drink.

WITH MONEY COMES BOOZE

      Lisa Meyers said she dreads October through December, when the state issues Alaska Permanent Fund "dividend" checks, money every Alaskan receives annually from the state's oil wealth, since the state owns 12.5 percent of the pipeline that runs through it.
      In 1996, the dividend was $1,130. And for too many native Alaskans, when the money flows, so does the alcohol.
      Bethel closed its bar and liquor store in the mid-1970s because of endless alcohol-related deaths among native Alaskans. But people are allowed to bring alcohol into town, and many from the villages check into local motels to drink.
      Meyers, who owns the Delta Cottages bed and breakfast with her husband, Tim, said they turn away many drunken people in the fall. At the Kuskokwim Inn, there are two room rates: $125 a night for drunks and $50 for everyone else.

In Bethel, even simple repairs, like fixing a broken starter cord on a snow machine, take on added urgency during the winter months of reduced daylight.

      Meyers grew up in Bethel and the nearby village of Stony River, where her parents, from Indiana and Kentucky, homesteaded. She said it is difficult to find reliable help among native Alaskans because of the drinking &emdash; and because those who are on welfare have different attitudes aboutwork. Many recipients' lives do not revolve around schedules and deadlines, making it difficult for them to show up for work regularly and on time.
      A native woman works the front desk, but Meyers said she had to bring in four Salvadorans to help her run the bed and breakfast.

      "There is a place, a need, for welfare," said Meyers, whose voice lilts with accents of the Yupik language she grew up around. "I hate to see them cut it back so drastically. But if the money was taken away, many natives would be forced to go out and get jobs."
      Having said that, however, Meyers notes that the realities are more complex. Many natives who live in the villages might want to work in Bethel, but they cannot afford the high cost of living in town, she said.

THE WORKING POOR

Two Salvadoran men chop a fishing hole through the ice of the Kuskokwim River as the early afternoon sun sets over Bethel.

      Working and still poor. This could end up being the fate of many natives &emdash; and other rural Americans &emdash; even if the welfare reforms work, said Gene Summers, a professor of rural sociology at the University of Wisconsin in Madison.
      "My great fear is that welfare reform has caught so much attention that people will say, 'Hey, we've dealt with poverty.' But that's just not true," he said.
      Welfare and poverty are separate, but inextricable, issues. Roughly half the families that are poor and live in America's rural counties have at least one family member who works &emdash; and still need welfare to get by, Summers said. For this reason, welfare is more appropriately called "income maintenance," he said.
      "Welfare has not been, is not now and never will be a pathway from poverty," said Summers, the leader of the Task Force on Persistent Rural Poverty, a national group of professionals from various disciplines that studies the issue.
      But welfare is essential if two of the best pathways &emdash; good education and good jobs &emdash; do not exist, he said.
      Summers predicted that destitution will persist, and even rise, if these do not accompany welfare reforms.
      In the case of the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta, he said, native Alaskans will continue to live in poverty even if they are paid for subsistence hunting and fishing. "The subsistence activity will be a form of income maintenance, just like welfare, not a pathway out of poverty."

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